stick coils?

I have been side by side with Furchin on his zl600. I pulled away pretty easy on my ZL1000 but certainly didn't leave him sitting still. It was then I knew the ZL600 is what it's designed to be, a mid size cruiser that can embarrass most big v-tweenies :laughing7:


I should have taken your word, without proving yourself...my apologys for being a smart ass...just defended my opinions....however bad they were.... I loved your comment about the tweenies. I need to keep n good graces with this forum. I have a sneaky suspicion that you will here from me on rare occasion. :rotf:

BTW that did happen to me one time and I thought the guy was going to blow his harley, trying to out accelerate me at a stop light.. Of course he didn't think I was much of a hand full...until the light turned green.
 
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Well add an other stick coil user to the list. We installed the stick coils on Yellow birds ZL1 this morning. Pritty straight forward install. Just a little fustrating tryin to get #2 coil down over plug but with a little trimming of the rubber its now an easy fit. Cleans up the look of the bike very nice

Got to do a little rideing as we took a test ride and then went for a quick lunch. As always its great to meet and hang out with the folks from zl-oa!

Mike thanks for helping me pace the thunderbird. I now will be looking for potential victims when I,m out and about with it!


As I said today anytime you want to get out for a ride just drop me a line and we will map out a nice day ride.
 
i experienced your pace paul, when i rode in your jeep i thought i was in a rally car. hammer down :icon_twisted:



Come on I was driving slow in the jeep that day cause I didnt want to scare you! If I actually drove fast you would probably stain your pants!! :scared:
 
i experienced your pace paul, when i rode in your jeep i thought i was in a rally car. hammer down :icon_twisted:

Come on I was driving slow in the jeep that day cause I didnt want to scare you! If I actually drove fast you would probably stain your pants!! :scared:


:rotf: yeah i was a little tenced a few times that day myself !, but hey we made it through that day & we're still alive ! :laughing7:
 
Even though I ride an Eliminator, I found out that I am not invincible. I almost had my lunch ate by a Triumph Thunderbird, how about it Paul. Again, thank you Paul for your help, the stick coils look great, very clean. Also, enjoyed the ride, hope to do it again.
 
Even though I ride an Eliminator, I found out that I am not invincible. I almost had my lunch ate by a Triumph Thunderbird, how about it Paul. Again, thank you Paul for your help, the stick coils look great, very clean. Also, enjoyed the ride, hope to do it again.

At least you can say that it took a bike with almost DOUBLE the displacement!
 
any faster? you were already on the rumble strips and rubbing bark off the trees. :confused2:


Now your A-- is starting to suck air!!:laughing7:

There arent any rumble strips on those roads and the speedo never went abouve 50mph on roads with a posted 40 and the other a posted 45 mph speed limit.

If I went any slower the guys in the farm tracktors and the amish bugies would have been tailgating me again!


My lord I never met such Nancy Boys in my Life!!:help:
 
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Before I solder the wires let me run this by you....

Red from the OEM harness is positive. (there are 2 red wires and the reds are not coil pack specific)
Black Wire is for coil pack for #1,#4...
Green wire is for coil pack #2,#3...

The green and black are grounds and the interruption of ground is what causes the collapse in the electrical field of the primary and this collapse induces the high voltage output of the secondary (to plug)

The stick coils all have a red wire in the 2 wire harness to each. The other wire on the 2 wire plug is black with different color tracers (green,orange,white) on 3 and the final black has no tracer. #1 coil will have a red connection from OEM harness to the red and it's black wire will connect to the red wire of coil #4 (soldered). The black wire with no tracer will then connect to black OEM primary. #2 coil will have red connected to red OEM harness. The black/tracer from #2 will then run to the red wire at #3 coil and the black/green tracer wire gets connected to green OEM...

Simple...
 
Hello new to the forum and have always wanted a ZL900 since 20 or so years ago when my friend ELIdaho purchased his. I finally was able to buy one more or less a parts bike and have been looking into building a kit for my buddies ZL900. I am also a Vmax owner and have been building the COP conversion kits for the Vmax. Just a word of friendly advice. Building a COP conversion for your bike is not just find some coils and solder some wires. There are many parameters that are involved, infact I had an electrical engineer hook up an ocilliscope to the Vmax and many tests were done. The main issue that you can run across is CDI failure, So be careful guys. I will attach a picture of the kit I have been building for the Vmax and my pride and joy. The ZL900 I am too embarressed to even show it.

Thanks G

DSCN1598.jpg

2011-10-26_17-14-44_866.jpg
 
Hey give the dude a break, he's just showing off his nicely done conversion for the v-max. Let's see the one you did for the ZL. I like the loom you used on V-Max and would like to do something similar.

I myself have nothing against the V-Max or the V65. Been chompin at the bit to line up against one at the strip :thumbsup:
 
The main thing to remember about a COP setup is keeping the coil resistance the same. The ignition module has to ground the voltage, the current is proportional to the coil resistance. If the coil resistance is low, current goes up. When Mark was first working this mod, i remember him making sure the resistance of the COP setup was very close to the original setup. You will see very little on a scope, nothing really worth worrying about. When the mod is followed as written, chances are slim you will have a problem with the ignition module failing.
 
Before I solder the wires let me run this by you....

Red from the OEM harness is positive. (there are 2 red wires and the reds are not coil pack specific)
Black Wire is for coil pack for #1,#4...
Green wire is for coil pack #2,#3...

The green and black are grounds and the interruption of ground is what causes the collapse in the electrical field of the primary and this collapse induces the high voltage output of the secondary (to plug)

The stick coils all have a red wire in the 2 wire harness to each. The other wire on the 2 wire plug is black with different color tracers (green,orange,white) on 3 and the final black has no tracer. #1 coil will have a red connection from OEM harness to the red and it's black wire will connect to the red wire of coil #4 (soldered). The black wire with no tracer will then connect to black OEM primary. #2 coil will have red connected to red OEM harness. The black/tracer from #2 will then run to the red wire at #3 coil and the black/green tracer wire gets connected to green OEM...

Simple...
Just saw this Bill, it doesn't matter which coil gets the +, could be #1 or #4 and could be the #2 or #3 The other coil grounds it. Just use the reds as the most positive and the other remaining wires as most negative. Just like the batteries in a diesel truck. You could wire the whole harness and flip it over and run it just the same with same results.
 
Just saw this Bill, it doesn't matter which coil gets the +, could be #1 or #4 and could be the #2 or #3 The other coil grounds it. Just use the reds as the most positive and the other remaining wires as most negative. Just like the batteries in a diesel truck. You could wire the whole harness and flip it over and run it just the same with same results.

hey mark, gonna be putting a set of sticks on my 900 here shortly with the help from scooby as soon as i get my new air box boots on those nice looking carbs that rick did 4 me. but my question is what gains can i expect from the sticks as far as performance goes?:icon_scratch:
 
Stick coils arent gonna give you any performance gain when replacing a good working set of stock coils. But they sure do clean up the valve cover area.
 
Stick coils arent gonna give you any performance gain . . .

Mark, you should know by now that ALL mods are an improvement - I call it the "Farkle Effect" (all in your head :laughing7: )
 
Thanks for the welcome by few and BTW negative people all they do is disrupt a friendly forum. On the coil conversions you are on the correct path with resistances and that is a primary goal, However not all coils are built the same and sometimes will require an actual Xray of one to identify the positive side of the coil. From my experiences of building these they help with starting and promote a crisper throttle responce. OH PS for a the ultra friendlys in the forum re-read my first post, I do have a ZL900 and am looking to build. I am not a purist obviously by looking at my Vmax. I am not about Vmax against the Eliminator I could truly give a $H!te about that petty crap! I am a muscle bike lover and am the move to collect all of them, all original or not. I believe in keeping them alive and it truly saddens me to see how many of the ZL's are getting parted out these days.

Thanks for your time gents
 
No x-ray needed to determine polarity. The primary has fewer turns and less resistance than the secondary, anywhere from a 80:1 ratio up to 100:1 (general numbers for inductive type ignition coils, the ZL's are an inductive system, not a capacitive system). The positive and negative terminals, if not marked, can be determined with a resistance check. One probe in the output, and the terminal with the greatest resistance is the positive terminal due to the fact that you are measuring both primary and secondary windings. From the output to the other terminal will yield secondary windings only. Easy peasy.
 
Not much offends me, if it is I that you are referring to? If it is me that you think that you have offended I am not.:laughing7: I just love to come into a group of guys that talk about how they love their bikes yet go and be little the outsider that is trying to come in. Not trying to stir anything up here , just still trying to figure out the comment about the Vmax word.... Not sure if at sometime you might have got knocked off your high horse trying to show your riding abilities net to a Vmax rider ( oh there is that little word again!) and got smacked down :laughing7: But once again I am not all about that petty crap, I am here because I have always enjoyed the ZL's and finally purchased one that I hope build. So lets get off of this conversation and get back to the coil conversions. :headbang:

Thanks
 
Hello new to the forum and have always wanted a ZL900 since 20 or so years ago when my friend ELIdaho purchased his. I finally was able to buy one more or less a parts bike and have been looking into building a kit for my buddies ZL900. I am also a Vmax owner and have been building the COP conversion kits for the Vmax. Just a word of friendly advice. Building a COP conversion for your bike is not just find some coils and solder some wires. There are many parameters that are involved, infact I had an electrical engineer hook up an ocilliscope to the Vmax and many tests were done. The main issue that you can run across is CDI failure, So be careful guys. I will attach a picture of the kit I have been building for the Vmax and my pride and joy. The ZL900 I am too embarressed to even show it.

Thanks G

DSCN1598.jpg

2011-10-26_17-14-44_866.jpg

Welcome to ZL-OA ! nice to have you with us !!! i love the work you have done to your Max !!!! :thumbsup:
 
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