oil by-pass mod. completed

Your pic didn't show up doc, so I wasn't sure what you were talking about. As far as the pics in this thread golddrakul is right. There are other mods out there that do require drilling but I'm still reading up on them and looking for info on them. Later.
 
Duh, should have looked more closely. If it had been a snake it would have bit me. 555 Now to find the right tubing for the job. Should be starting the rebuild tomorrow or the next day.
 
Yes, I added the bypass , but in hind sight I think I would separate the two lines.
Just run from the I-tube to no.3-4 ext. and block off the Y,
and use 3/8 steel tube instead of 5/16.


Can you give a drawing so I can better understand this?


This mod is to increase oil flow. So you may also want to redrill the 4 rod cap oil hole,
not the bearing.

Do you have a pic of the 4 rod cap oil hole?

Sorry to be so daft. 555
 
Time to post up the oil mods done by Gremlin and I to my ZL9 Swap bike. All we are doing is increasing volume and pressure here.

  • Enlarged and contoured oil passage in oil pump plate where it flows from the filter bolt
  • Shortened filter bolt 1/8" and drilled out almost to ball seat to 1/2". Also opened side top holes to 1/2" and replaced filter bypasss spring with a bigger/stiffer spring.
  • Drillled ends of I-Tubes to remove extra pipe material
  • Re-made J-tube out of 3/8" steel
  • Centered up hole in the #4 main bearing cap
  • Replaced pressure relief valve with a newer ZX11 part# 16130-1058
  • Replaced the 2 drain plugs with Bacchus' heavy duty drain plugs
Gremlin did the same mods to his as well. He reports that the oil pressure is up over 60psi @ 4000rpm. Stock specs are 38-47psi @ 4000rpm
 

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Yea the internal bypass just adds more oil to the same restriction. The external one would be the one to do if your going to go that route. I think what we did will do the trick.
 
That's good to know as far as oil pressure going up. I've done most of those mods as well as one other with the pump. Hopefully I'll get some pics posted up one of these days. How was Gremlin running an oil pressure gauage? I read something somehwere about removing one of the sensors - oil over temp light sensor in the oil pan? And putting a gauge sensor in there instead? Later.
 
  • Enlarged and contoured oil passage in oil pump plate where it flows from the filter bolt
  • Shortened filter bolt 1/8" and drilled out almost to ball seat to 1/2". Also opened side top holes to 1/2" and replaced filter bypasss spring with a bigger/stiffer spring.
  • Drillled ends of I-Tubes to remove extra pipe material
  • Re-made J-tube out of 3/8" steel
  • Centered up hole in the #4 main bearing cap
  • Replaced pressure relief valve with a newer ZX11 part# 16130-1058
  • Replaced the 2 drain plugs with Bacchus' heavy duty drain plugs
Gremlin did the same mods to his as well. He reports that the oil pressure is up over 60psi @ 4000rpm. Stock specs are 38-47psi @ 4000rpm

Mark, and Gremlin...

I have my new motor apart for upgrades before stuffing it in my bike.


How much did you drill out the oil passage in the oil pump plate?

What is the purpose of shortening the oil filter bolt? Nevermind on this one...I looked closer at the plate and can see how the oil passage would be restricted.

Isn't the #3 bearing cap the one that needs work or was that a typo in a different thread I saw? Or is it the #4 Main that doesn't line up, and it causes rods #3, #4 to get thrown first from bad oil supply to those bearings as well.

Anymore photos?
 
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I opened the oil passage up to 3/8" in the filter plate. Careful doing this if you drill too far you may drill through. Take a close look at the oil flow and start rounding off sharp corners. I don't remember now which bearing cap but it's the one the J-Tube attaches to.

As you are grinding and drilling be very careful not to mess any bearing or sealing surfaces up!

Also upgraded the oil pressure releif valve
 
I opened the oil passage up to 3/8" in the filter plate. Careful doing this if you drill too far you may drill through.
OK, I will start out small and gradually make it larger until I'm happy.

Take a close look at the oil flow and start rounding off sharp corners. I don't remember now which bearing cap but it's the one the J-Tube attaches to.
Yeah I saw the stuff inside the I-Tube...pretty messed up they fabricated and left it that way. After going back downstairs and yanking the J-Tube out I realized what cap it was, thanks.

Also upgraded the oil pressure releif valve

Right, I plan to do that as well. Does anybody know the difference of psi they each relief at?


Now let me add my argument about the internal by-pass: If you look where the milling is done to the pan, you are opening a new channel between the oil return and the sump / pickup.

By doing this don't we somewhat defeat the purpose of having two screens? Any of the oil that gets returned in the square part of the pan should go back to the pump via the screen next to the j-tube.

By cutting a channel into the pan any fragments are free to roam back into the bottom of the pan, and we end up relying on the pick-up screen to do double work.

Just my .02 about it.

I too think using larger tube for the j-tube would help.
 
well, I read everything but i dont think anyone mentioned what the oil pressure should be and if it changed after this mod!

Cheers!
 
I don't know yet because I'm waiting on a few parts to fire it up still. Maybe somebody else that has made the changes will chime in.
 
I think it's around 38psi at 4000rpm and will rise up to around 70-80 at high rpm. I didn't see a difference between the stock zl and the oil modified one, but I know there has got to be more volume
 
Speaking of more volume Mark...I forgot to take a photo but the ZL oil pickups are metal and flat...I used the ZG one I had because they are shaped like a funnel...I was worried because it was plastic at first...but then I thought about the design.

I thought this one would be better to use because it can pickup more oil instead of the restricting one from the ZL's
 
Yup and they seem to fit better too
Hey guys, I'm in the process of fixing up my bike, threw a rod just like you mudrunner, I have a ZL9 engine that I'm dropping in, but life got to me and i'm just now getting to rebuild it.

Anyways, i've been reading and re-reading about this mod and I agree with you Mark, making the internal bypass doesn't strike me as something that will increase the amount of oil flowing to the problem area. that said, I was checking out what you guys did and I was curious:

Mudrunner: What do you mean by oil pick-ups, and do you have a part number so i can try to get a look at it so I know where it goes?
"I used the ZG one I had because they are shaped like a funnel.....I thought this one would be better to use because it can pickup more oil instead of the restricting one from the ZL's"

zlMark: How exactly did you remake the J-Tube?
 
Hey guys, I'm in the process of fixing up my bike, threw a rod just like you mudrunner, I have a ZL9 engine that I'm dropping in, but life got to me and i'm just now getting to rebuild it.

Anyways, i've been reading and re-reading about this mod and I agree with you Mark, making the internal bypass doesn't strike me as something that will increase the amount of oil flowing to the problem area. that said, I was checking out what you guys did and I was curious:

Mudrunner: What do you mean by oil pick-ups, and do you have a part number so i can try to get a look at it so I know where it goes?
"I used the ZG one I had because they are shaped like a funnel.....I thought this one would be better to use because it can pickup more oil instead of the restricting one from the ZL's"

zlMark: How exactly did you remake the J-Tube?
I didn't, gremlin did it for me! All you need is a simple 90 degree bend, use the existing ends and fit(drill,ream) those to the new pipe. Then make a standoff like the original. Welcome to the forum bro!
 
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