What kind of mileage do ya get?

kawboy said:
Hmmm. . . odd. Wonder why the big difference :icon_scratch:
Click to expand...

Maybe tire size combined with slightly inaccurate speedo?
Another statement that got my attention was GDS saying that at 6000 rpms
in 6th his bike is going 75 mph.
At 6000 rpms in 6th mine is reading well into the 80 mph range.
 
Just took the zl1 for a test run into town and back. Have to say that 4000 rpm is not 60 mph with stock gearing and a 150/80 tire.
My zl1 was doing about 51 to 53mph at 4000 rpm.
 
There is a theoretical 5% difference in diameter between a 150/80 and a 170/80. A 150 comes out to 24.4", a 160 is 25.7"

Not sure how this relates to gearing/road speed/rpm. Would have to look it up, but someone here prolly knows how to calculate that.
 
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by gds
50mph=4100rpm
60mph=4700rpm
70mph=5300rpm


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Hmmm. . . odd. Wonder why the big difference :icon_scratch:
rkerg said:
Maybe tire size combined with slightly inaccurate speedo?
Another statement that got my attention was GDS saying that at 6000 rpms
in 6th his bike is going 75 mph.
At 6000 rpms in 6th mine is reading well into the 80 mph range.
Click to expand...
For speed measurement I was using Garmin GPS.
Tires are a size bigger than standard. Front:110/90, Rear:170/80. http://www.zl-oa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8751&highlight=shinko
The 6000rpm=75mph statement was from a foggy memory, I will give a more precise reading later.
 
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I saw tons of bikes out this past weekend.I would have liked to be,but this is all I rode.About 15hrs fri,sat,and sunday.Gotta pay for the toys,and its easy extra cash.
 

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OK, first let me apologize to all those who have been losing sleep waiting for me to report what my reading at 6000 rpm's is. LOL. Anyway today, I went for a ride and found that, on my bike, 6000 rpm's is a reading of about 87 mph. BTW, the reason that I got into this thing was after seeing that some guys bikes were getting pretty lousy mpg and they were having some trouble figuring out why. My thought was that maybe some previous owner had changed the gearing, and that by getting enough input from others on this board we could establish a consensus of what the readings should be and maybe help someone improve their mpg.
 
I had been wondering if there was an 'easy' way of changing the gearing. Maybe there is a single gear around the driveshaft area or rear wheel that would be easier to get to instead of inside the transmission. I'd love to get mine below 6000rpm on the interstate. I understand that changing a final drive gear would change all (1-6) gear ratios but that wouldn't bother me, I'm not trying to be the 'king of the strip.'
 
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Went for a great ride with a buddy (Honda CBR 1000). To try and keep up with him I had to sacrifice a bit of my footpegs (they're aftermarket (made of some kind of lightweight metal (aluminum?)) and they don't have any sacrificial little piece on the bottom, but they do swivel up which helps). Was doing alot of high rpm mountain twisties.
There was one mountain pass that we ran up and down quite a few times. The first couple times I would stay in 3rd gear the entire run. We got faster and faster as we learned the curves and eventually I was fast enough that I would have to get up into 4th gear to keep from red lining in certain places. My buddies CBR could stay in 2nd no matter haw fast we got (and he got a bit faster than I (my lower footpegs limited my speed)).
Both tanks of gas were 27.3 mpg.
In 6th gear:
70mph=5400rpm
80mph=6000rpm
(speed reading aquired with Garmin gps)
 
Yep, taller tire=lower rpm. My stock sized rear tire zl1000 runs at 5000 rpm at 70mph and the zl900 with the 170/80-15 runs at 4700 rpm at 70mph
 
I get 38-40 miles and she has to go into researve. When I get gas it takes about a gallon. One time I had a terible time with it. Don't know if it was a stuck needle (float) or what, ran through a complete tank of gas in about 20 miles. Had to push it a couple of miles to a station. When I got home I took the tank off to check and see what the plugs looked like and found the two emission lines on the gas tank switched (from when I tuned motor). Switched the lines back and everything returned to normal. Don't know if that caused the problem or not, anyway it seams fine now.

Mike
 
to me it doesnt really matter what your tach says cause the kawi tachs arent that accurate. I have more than one zl and they do not read consistantly. consider it guidance as to your rpms rather than actual figures. I also have a Veypor guage on my zl1000 and depending on rpm the factory guage ranges from about spot, on to way off.

in other words at idle, the two guages are a match take her up to 4ooo or more and she dont match up at all.

kawi guages are good for a general whereabouts is your rpm... and that all to it
 
gds said:
I had been wondering if there was an 'easy' way of changing the gearing. Maybe there is a single gear around the driveshaft area or rear wheel that would be easier to get to instead of inside the transmission. I'd love to get mine below 6000rpm on the interstate. I understand that changing a final drive gear would change all (1-6) gear ratios but that wouldn't bother me, I'm not trying to be the 'king of the strip.'
Click to expand...

Voyager final drive swap. The Eliminator's final drive is 2.99, Voyagers are 2.42 I think. Not sure what's all involved, but they are pretty similar. They use the same coupler to attach to the wheel and the same spline count coming off the pinion gear, I think... This is all just from looking at the parts diagrams and cross-reference books.

BTW, by Voyager, I'm referring to ZG1200's, not ZN's

EDIT: Connie drive is another option as well, but they are 2.71's, so not as much advantage there. BUT the Connie SHOULD be a direct bolt-in swap. No customizing needed, pretty much all P/N's involved cross between ZL900's and ZG1000 (couplers included).
 
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