ticking top end

samuelc

samuelc

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Glenburn Me.
I just bought my ZL1000 a few months back. I have a little bike knowledge as Ive had five bikes over the last 3 years. I buy, fix, ride, and sell. started with xs400, xs650, xj1100, 600ninja, 600katana. I think this zl is my keeper. I bought it with 22k on it and it wouldnt start. after doing the carbs and checking the igniter, I finally did a valve adjustment. i found that every valve on it was tight if not open. Didnt show up on an audio compression test cause they were all the same. i dont have the adaptor to fit these heads any way. after the valve adjustment it fired up and purred.:thumbsup: after struggeling to get the air box on i took it for my first taste of real power.:twisted: this is what I've been looking for. But after 3 miles i notice that i hear a tick in the upper end. Now I am human and I could have not tightened the adjuster nut enough but its not my first rodeo. is there anything else i should look for before i tear into the valves again? can the cam chain make a tick?
 
Sounds to me like they might be a little loose. Kawasakis are known to do this. If it is a ticking and not a scatching sound then I would lean toward that.
 
First off "WELCOME to the ZL FORUM!!! And i would recheck your adjustment on the vavles...warm up loosen them i run mine a little tight to avoid this tick......Try to pen point the top end "tick" front back right left side of the head......:goodluck: Oh and we love pics of ZL 'S!!!!!
 
I agree with Madman, WELCOME and I have had to re-open the top more than once to re-do a valve! I set mine at 13 and 18mm.
Good luck and RIDE ON
Putt
 
I used to freak out about ticking valve-trains until I resolved noises it in a number of bikes. In nearly all of my cases it was due to a loose/stock cam chain tensioner (check the guide, too if you can). Other rabbit holes I've run down in the past are exhaust gaskets/leaks and valve adjustments. I have found when adjusting valves that having at least two separate thickness gauge sets to verify with settles any doubt I may have about whether or not I adjusted them right. I know with the screw type adjusters you do have to be careful as the gap can change as you tighten things up. A few heat cycles may settle things too. Make sure to check clearances on a cold motor (not that you could take apart a fully warm motor very well anyway without burning yourself).

If you know that you torqued everything correctly and set the clearances right (checking them again after everything was tightened down), then I would look into a manual CCT or reset the stock one. I was amazed how much I could quiet things up or make them much louder once I got my first CCT on there. Just make sure you never let it vibrate loose (use locktite), don't over tighten the cam chain, and be prepared to adjust it every now and again.
 
thanks so much for your input. It sounds like its on the chain side but its not a scratchy or whiney sound. Ill recheck the valves this weekend. I think it does get worse when it warms up. But why every valve was so tight i dont under stand. It was like someone deliberately over tightened every one. ever hear of such a thing?
 
No idea there. My old CRV I had to adjust the valves every 30k. Bought car with 77k on it all valves were too tight. It is a known problem with that car they tighten up and burn up.
 
samuelc said:
thanks so much for your input. It sounds like its on the chain side but its not a scratchy or whiney sound. Ill recheck the valves this weekend. I think it does get worse when it warms up. But why every valve was so tight i dont under stand. It was like someone deliberately over tightened every one. ever hear of such a thing?
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Valves tighten up under normal use. If you never adjusted the valves, they would continue to tighten up until the cam lobes went flat. I really hope there wasn't damage to the cam in your bike.
 
Don't know about valves "tightening up" with normal use...That's a new one on me. But anyway...valves are tricky and simple all in the same sentence....the first and foremost thing you need to remember is PATIENCE! I went through and did my valves and spent about 3.5 hours on them...I went left to right to left and then right again~! I caught a couple that were outta whack when I went through second time.....My sled runs like no other now. I can't believe just how much power was lost before I did my valves....Also...GET A MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER....obviously can't stress that enough.

My valves have had about 1000 miles on them and my engine sounds as good as it did the day I did my valves. Manual says about every 15K....Also...loose valves are better than tight valves...Also, don't follow timing marks....look at the lobes on the cam and make sure that they are all the way through the cycle.....Theirs a complete explanation in here.

Good luck....when you get your valves right...hold on...I would expect about 10-25 hp difference between improperly and properly adjusted valves. That's why I call my bike ...sled...like in rocket sled.

I would run Rotella dino diesel oil....it's great stuff and it's cheap...I do my oil changes every 100-200 miles...why? Cuz my bike sees 10K alot....sheers the hell outta the oil...so I just change it.
 
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Im gonna get the manual tensioner. I'm trying to get it running right this fall just to ride it around a bit before I pull it all apart for a paint job and tire change. gotta say I would rather redo the valves than have to fight with the air box again. :no-no-no: I also plan on a uni filter and 4+ advancer from the zl store. i dont have it registered yet but I hope to get all the stuff done by next spring. The tire spinning power of this this is addictive and winter in Maine is gonna be maddening.:sad: Ill post what i find when i get the valve cover off.
 
Scoobys_piece said:
I would run Rotella dino diesel oil....it's great stuff and it's cheap...I do my oil changes every 100-200 miles...why? Cuz my bike sees 10K alot....sheers the hell outta the oil...so I just change it.
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Scoob thats a big waste of money! That oil will stand up to mucch more than 200 miles of abuse and still have great vicosity! Remember the rottella is designed for engines that put on millions of miles and are always under stress in big trucks so a few runs to the 10,000 rpm mark is nothing compared to 20,000 miles in a big truck running cross country for months at a time.
 
didn't get to work on my bike this weekend. I did however order some new airbox boots & springs. heres a picture of my beast before i paint it this winter.0923131916.jpg
 
I just got my parts from the zlstore. can't wait to get them all on.:clapping: I got the manual adjuster, the performance advancer, new valve cover seal set, uni filter. I got a oem carb rebuild kit and a petcock rebuild kit from murphs. a seat cover kit off ebay. and a new handlebar of jc witney. can't wait to get out in the shed and start tinkering. gonna get some new tires and look out spring. wish the wife would let me put the bike in the spare bedroom. that shed gets cold in this Maine winter climate.:sad3:
 
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