Side stand switch problem - any ideas?

[naughtyG]

So I have this problem: my ZL1000 still runs with the side stand down when I engage 1st gear.

I've checked the switch (someone had hacked the actuator off and I fixed it) and it works fine. I've checked the warring from switch to junction box and it's good. The neutral circuit is fine - light comes on at neutral.

I've tested the junction box according to manual supplement, and all looks ok, apart maybe from one thing: 2 out of 3 diodes read around 600Ω one way, but the third reads around 1000Ω. Could this be it?

Has anyone any experience of opening the junction box and/or replacing the diodes?

Failing that, has anyone got a spare junction box know to work they'd like to part with?

And finally, if anyone has any experience with a similar problem, please chime in! I've imported this bike and can't register it as it won't pass inspection because of the side stand switch safety feature not working ++

 

[Jarney]

Your bike should run with the sidestand down and the bike in gear - it's when you let out the clutch under those conditions that the bike should die. Here's a couple of threads that may be of help. Later.


http://www.zl-oa.com/community/threads/ZL1000-Question-about-the-side-stand-switch.9121


http://www.zl-oa.com/community/threads/Kick-stand-kill-switch.8206

 

[naughtyG]

Your bike should run with the sidestand down and the bike in gear - it's when you let out the clutch under those conditions that the bike should die. Here's a couple of threads that may be of help. Later.


Hmm no I tried letting the clutch out but it still didn't die. Maybe I need to try letting it out all the way, but I don't think it's working

 

[kawboy]

The diode readings will vary, depending on what meter you're using, and the resistance range selected. 600 to 1000 sounds awful low, but all 3 being bad is unlikely. The forward readings with my meter are around 40K ohms, or around 0.6 volt if using the diode test function.

What brand/model meter are you using? What range?

If the meter has a 100K or 200K ohm range, try testing on that range.

 

[slug]

I can engage clutch and crawl the bike forward with the stand down, only once clutch fully out under load does my circuit kill the engine.

 

[slug]

Also my original switch died, and when I replaced it I found the new switch pole was too long so when the bike went back on the stand it was trying to put all the weight on the switch. I ground the end off about 2mm and it's worked fine for years now.

 

[naughtyG]

Well I've let out the clutch all the way, rode off and even went into 2nd gear with the side stand down - and still it ran.

Also, I've looked carefully at the electric diagram and I can't find a clutch lever switch on this bike - is anyone able to confirm whether there is supposed to be one or not?

Right now I'm at a loss, my side stand switch works fine, my junction box tests ok - other than maybe the diodes give weird readings - but the safety device is not working.

Help?

 

[naughtyG]

I had my meter set to 2000Ω, and that's how I got the reading of around 600Ω on two test points and around 1000Ω on the third.

When I tried testing the reverse I got no reading at all - tried at 2kΩ to 2000kΩ. But that's consistent with a diode, right?

The meter is a SkyTronic 600.006

Here are the actual readings at 2000Ω range with the pins as per the service manual supplement:

9-13 1029 Ω
10-13 1049 Ω
14-12 614 Ω
14-15 604 Ω
14-16 632 Ω

the + of the meter is always the first number e.g. 9+ 13- for the first reading. When I attempt to measure the reverse (13-9, 13-10, 12-14, 15-14 & 16-14) I can't get any reading in any meter range (200, 2k, 20k, 200k & 2000kΩ)

In diode test mode, my meter beeps when I touch the two wires together. When I do the readings as above, this is what I get:

9-13 1015
10-13 990
14-12 566
14-15 557
14-16 581 no idea what the scale is but I assume it's also ohms?

All other readings with and without 12V applied check out with the service manual supplement - the only thing I can't work out is the above readings for the diodes.

Would you say my diodes are toast? Would that explain the safety device not working (bike running in gear and clutch out with side stand down)?

 

[prfixer]

At least when it left the factory, it had a clutch switch. 2 wires would have gone to it, coming out of the headlight bucket(I believe). Did you bypass the sidestand switch(short the 2 conductors together)? If you don't find the 2 wires going into the clutch master cylinder, someone has done something to the wiring up there.

 

[naughtyG]

Damn that's what I was afraid of.. There aren't any wires going to the clutch lever, and no switch. The weird thing is, there are no spare wires in the headlight bucket either (I would have expected a pair of unplugged ones there).

Would you mind having a look in your headlight bucket and letting me know the color of the wires going to your clutch switch?

 

[prfixer]

I can when I get home, but that will be a few days yet.

 

[naughtyG]

Thanks - t'will be much appreciated

 

[kawboy]

The diodes are good.
The first 2 read higher because there is also a relay coil in that path.
And yes, when you reverse the leads you should not get a reading (infinity).

 

[Jarney]

The clutch switch wires are light green and yellow/green. The light green wire goes to the Neutral light in the headlight bucket and also down to the oil pan - where the Neutral switch is - below the oil sight glass. The yellow/green wire runs to the fuse box. Later.

 

[naughtyG]

kawboy


That's good to know, and it says my junction box is good. What's your experience with the clutch lever switch? Is there one on your bike? If so, what color wires, and where do they go to? It appears to be missing on my bike :-/

 

[R. J.]

Here is the wiring diagram.

 

[naughtyG]

Thanks for the diagram - I have it here. Would you say the clutch lever switch is what's referred to as "Starter Lockout Switch" on the diagram (bottom left)?

 

[RLTherio]

That should be the same, the other four switches are all located on the clutch controls

 

[naughtyG]

I'll have to open the LH switchgear, as I can't see any wires going where I'd expect them for the missing clutch switch.

Also, would anyone have a spare clutch switch with mounting screws they'd want to part with?

Thanks in advance,
nG

 

[kawboy]

The switch is not inside the housing. It’s attached to the bottom of the master cylinder.

The wires/connector exit from the larger wire bundle near the housing.