Should I try to fix it myself?

D

Dennison

Active Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Fist time writer, I have a 84(?) Eliminator 400. The fork seals have been a little leaky for a while now, I had a mechanic lined up but due to health reasons I no longer have a mechanic.
I want to maybe try to fix this myself as a learning experience. I have a garage and some tools and can buy more. I am worried that I get it apart and am in way over my head...catastrophe ..etc..etc.
Is this too big a job to start on? Does anyone have a shop manual for this bike or a different model I can use for this purpose?
What are some of the experiences out there with doing this?
The other option is that I get this done for $250 and have my bike back same day.
Thanks for your help!!
 
Thanks this looks good, I would say that it needs an overhaul as it is a little more than just a thin film and has been for a while. I think I may give it a try, the first step is a little confusing for me but really there is only one way to learn. Any ideas on manuals I could use.For example is a 600, or 900 manual useful for this. Just to keep track of parts when reassembling etc.
 
I'd say the ZL600 would be closest. You'll find that and some ZL400 stuff in Forums/Downloads.

Oh, and welcome to the site!
 
I too felt the same way when I first did my fork seals on my ZL900. I followed the guide in these forums and took my time. Once you have completed the job and you can sit back and see no more leaks - the feeling of satisfaction is great. If for some reason you stuff it up, no worries, start again. If you really stuff it up, take the forks into a bike shop and they will fix it for you and then you can re-install them on your bike yourself. Probably way cheaper than getting a mechanic to do the whole job.

Let us know if you have any questions.
 
Wow , thanks a lot for the input guys. This is great . I will let you know how it goes and hopefully take pictures.
 
What part confuses you ? I can try to elaborate.
 
Possibly what I am doing is removing the snap ring that holds the cap on. I use the handlebars as a fulcrum instead of trying to compress the spring other ways. You need to compress the spring inside some to get the snap ring out. If I leave it in the bike I can use the tripletree to keep it secure and stable. Is this the part that confuses you? THe tougher part can be the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg that needs to come out. Make sure you use pressure (friction) to help you remove it.
 
This was what I was thinking about. It seems clearer now. I am just going to go ahead and try this. Is there a tool that exists to remove the bolt at the bottom. I plan on trying it your way, but remember my first mechanic saying something about a tool. Anyway I will let all know how it goes. Thanks a lot for all the help.
 
Not sure it will happen w/o an airgun to take it apart as the impact lessens the need for friction. I have thought about making the tool you are talking about but have never needed it.....yet
 
Alright , after some figuring out and using the instructions from here I am almost done. I am just trying to figure out how much oil to put back in , I believe this to a bit smaller that the 500/600 that I have the manual for so I am just going to put in the ( - ) measurement provided in that manual and not fill over 5 inches from the top. Any suggestions? and thanks for the pointer that were given. Invaluable information!!
 
ZLMark - Just read you comment, I thought this myself, however the 500/600 have a valve at the top where my 400 does not, I was thinking I will just fill to the ml in that guide anyway and see how it works, at this point it is not really looking like I have a lot of options.

Thanks for getting back to me on this!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top