Replace the starter

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Eliminator1

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So, there I was, frustrated with my zl900 that wouldn't start. I pulled the electrical panel cover off and checked all the fuses. They were fine. The I saw that the large diode for the starter was the same for the light so I swapped those thinking that if it's the diode the starter would at least run but I'd have no lights but I would have solved the problem. That didn't work so I think the diode is okay. I pulled the starter switch on the handlebars apart and promptly dropped the small screw that holds the starter button in the hole on the lawn never to be seen again and put the kill switch in but it wasn't sitting in correctly. So, it didn't have a clean snap on and off. Oh, and I ran the perfectly charged battery down so it wouldn't even turn over. Then winter hit, so in frustration I put the bike in the back of the shed and let it sit till warmer weather. I have since pulled the starter switch apart and put the kill switch back so it snaps on and off and used a small screw from the recording head of a Japanese vcr for the start button. Who knew those would be interchangeable? So I have ordered a new battery (I let mine sit all winter with no charge) and a new battery tender. The old battery was able to take a charge but not enough to start the bike. I may need to replace the starter. If so, it looks as if I would remove the carbs first then the airbox in order to get a wrench on the second bolt on the starter that sits behind the oil fill spout. My question is, is that the correct procedure? I have used this site before with an oil pan gasket replacement and other projects on the bike and I am looking forward to hinds and tips.
 
I think you should be able to get to the starter bolts without removing all that other garbage, with the right size socket (10mm) and extension, it should pop right off. If you need one, let me know, I have a few good spares.
 
Check that the voltage is getting to the starter when the button is pressed. if it isn't let me know
 
Figured it out finally. I put a wire from the battery to the lead wire on the starter. Mind you the wire going to the starter wasn't attached to the starter. I could hear the relay diode clicking, that tells me it was working. Then, I put a wire directly from the battery to the post on the starter and almost shed a tear, it worked!!! One step closer. after leaving the battery tender on for awhile longer, I hit the start button and the blasted thing started right up. That ruled out fuel delivery issue and bad starter. The next issue I have to tackle is if the alternator is bad. After running the bike for 10 minutes I shut it down and it would not restart. My current thinking is that it's just a bad battery for which I have one ordered. That would explain no starts then misfires and all the current issues I'm having with it. :hello2:
 
The alternator does not begin charging until 2K rpm or so. If you let it idle long enough, the batt would eventually die, but that should not happen in 10 minutes if the batt is good/charged.

You need a voltmeter to check the alternator. Put the leads across the batt terminals, the voltage should rise as rpm's rise, should go to at least 13.5, but not above 15 volts or so.

I can hook you up with nice rebuilt alternator if you need one.

Good luck.
 
kawboy said:
The alternator does not begin charging until 2K rpm or so. If you let it idle long enough, the batt would eventually die, but that should not happen in 10 minutes if the batt is good/charged.

You need a voltmeter to check the alternator. Put the leads across the batt terminals, the voltage should rise as rpm's rise, should go to at least 13.5, but not above 15 volts or so.

I can hook you up with nice rebuilt alternator if you need one.

Good luck.
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A little off topic but I just wanted to mention, I put one of those battery monitors on my 1000 and at 1200 rpm's it reads a little over 13 volts and from 1500 rpms on up it reads 14 or just a hair better. The monitor may not be that accurate but seems like it shows that it's charging earlier in the rpms than what I used to think it would. It's hooked directly to the battery. Later.
 
Jarney said:
A little off topic but I just wanted to mention, I put one of those battery monitors on my 1000 and at 1200 rpm's it reads a little over 13 volts and from 1500 rpms on up it reads 14 or just a hair better. The monitor may not be that accurate but seems like it shows that it's charging earlier in the rpms than what I used to think it would. It's hooked directly to the battery. Later.
Click to expand...

Yes, it does start charging just off idle, but I wanted to give him a number.
According to manual, max output is at 6K rpm.
 
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