AIRBOX issues....

Aliwelder

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My ZL1000 came with K&N pods fitted in a cut down airbox to enable easy fitment of the chromed covers. Sometimes she ran great, others she coughed and
spluttered and backfired through the (mostly No 1 ) carbs.
I`ve decided to go back to an airbox and filter set up. I bought a used airbox with rubbers from fleabay but can I make it fit. Can I fook. I was assured it came from a ZL1000. The box part looks identical to the remains of the cut down one the bike came with. The rubbers are still soft and flexible, however, they seem smaller than the mouths of the carbs they`re meant to fit on. Rubbers around 50mm i/d. Carbs measure 55mm o/d (Keihin CVK34`s) which I assume are the originals. There also doesn`t seem to be enough room between the carb holders and the airbox rubbers to ever get the carbs in.
What could be wrong here? am I missing something obvious. The boots are available new from Kawasaki UK but I`d rather not fork out and end up with the same issues..
Thanks Rob
 
That was my initial thought but checking out the part numbers for the 1000 and 900, the numbers for the rubber boots are the same. If they are for a 900 and a different size the 1000 boots should solve my problem. I`ll post some pics when I finish work tomorrow.
Thanks Rob
 
:hello: Once the air box boots are removed they can shrink up. If it was me I would buy new ones. It will go together easier. I have a new set for when the time comes for carb removal. It is a very tight fit weather using new or old boots. You need to strap a racket strap around the air box & frame. Then tighten the strap. This will give you about an extra inch or so. Of course the mounting screws should be removed. Put the carbs in from the bottom. Bring up the rear first. Put the air box boots on. Then push the carbs into the intake boots. Be prepared for a good fight. :laughing7: Take your time & take breaks if you are loosing the fight. :laughing7:
 
Madmann supposes right - boots are different: 900=14073-1224/1225 ; 1000=14073-1273/1274. They can't have same # coz of diff. carb dia. 32 vs. 34...so airbox is different too: big boots don't fit in small holes (madmann: no comment on this...:no-no-no::rotf::laughing7:)
 
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Madmann supposes right - boots are different: 900=14073-1224/1225 ; 1000=14073-1273/1274. They can't have same # coz of diff. carb dia. 32 vs. 34...so airbox is different too: big boots don't fit in small holes (madmann: no comment on this...:no-no-no::rotf::laughing7:)

The airbox I believe is identical. The boots fit in the airbox size exactly the same on both but the carb side is different for the 1K and the 900. The 1K boots should go right on the airbox and then fit to your carbs..
 
Many ways to do it, here is my way...

Remove seat, remove tank. There may or may not be a couple more vacuum lines attatched to the carbs, if so pull them off (these will be on the engine side of the carbs, not the airbox side.) . Remove chrome side covers. At the throttle grip there are your two throttle cables coming into the housing. There should be a jam nut on each one. Take a 10mm wrench or a small adjustable wrench and loosen the jam nuts (standard right hand thread). Back the jam nuts all the way back off until you run out of threads. Then take an 8mm wrench and turn the adjusters in towards the throttle grip. Once you have them all the way in, the cables will be at their most loose state. Remove the three screws and separate the halves of the switch. Take a small screwdriver or seal pick and remove one of the throttle cables out of the throttle sleeve. Once one is out, the other will come right out. Let that assembly hang (careful it doesnt swing down and bang into the fender). One each side of the airbox is a bolt the bolts it to the frame. 10mm socket. Remove the two bolts. Do not slide the airbox back yet. On the airbox boots there should be a spring that goes around the boot right where it meets the carb. It sits in a groove. Using a small screwdriver or the radiator tool. Roll it back out of the groove towards the airbox.

Drain the carb bowls. With the choke lever in the full off position, reach in from the right side front of the carbs and push the choke (enrichener) slide towards the left to give you slack to remove the choke cable and pull it out of the way. Back off the screws on the carb holders. Maybe spray some penetrating oil on the screw threads prior to lossening them. Loosen them up very loose. Once you have that done, you are ready to begin pulling them. I prefer to put the rear tire up against a wall or put the bike in gear or find a way to hold the bike from rolling backwards. You can straddle the bike and put your legs behind the foot pegs if you like. I prefer to kneel to the left side of the bike. What you want to do is push the carbs backwards towards the airbox until the front of the carb bodies clear the carb holders. This will take a pretty good amount of push and wiggle. The reason I leave my carbs in the airbox and not slide it back first is so the carb bodies don't start to come out of the boots and make the travel backwards harder. Once you clear the fronts of the carbs from the holders, rotate the front of the carbs downward and clear of the holders. Then it is just a matter of slowly wiggling and working the carbs out of the left side a ways until you can get to the throttle cables on the carbs. Remove them and then pull the carbs out of the bike...

All of the throttle cable and choke cable ends are made the same way, with a small barrel attached to the end of the cable. The barrel can be pushed out of it's place after the cable is rotated around to pass out of the slot...

When you put them in, just do the reverse. Slide them in from the left part way and attach your cables then move them towards the center as you also guide the cables . Keep the front of the carbs down under the carb holders and tilt the rear upwards towards the airbox. No need to worry about them seating in the airbox just yet. Once they are semi lined up with the airbox boots, you will have to push them backwards and this will kinda compress the boots. Push them far enough back so that the front of the carbs can be rotated upwards and clear the carb holders. This takes a lot of backwards push force and the carbs will just barely clear the carb holders. Once they are up and lined up with the carb holders you should be able to slide them forward and into the resting position in the holders. Then you need to take like a radiator tool or some method of running inside the lips of the airbox boots until they are outside of the carbs. Do one at a time (this is tedious and frustrating at times). Once they are where they will fit over the rear mouth of all four carbs you can slide the airbox forward and secure the two mounting bolts..be patient. It is a bit of a PITA but it can be done..
 
The box is the same on both bikes, its the boots that are different. You will drive yourself madd trying to fit the 900 boot over the 1000 carbs just get the right boots and then follow WillyD' s post for fitment.
 
Telling what I measured on my 9: boot dia. to carb side = 50mm; boot inside airflow dia. = 45mm; hole dia. in airbox for boot ~ 51.25mm. The ZL10 has CVK 34 carbs w/ 55mm to take the rubber boots, so the inner airflow dia. is IMHO 50mm - won't fit w/ 51mm holes in airbox, must be bigger (can someone measure who has ZL10 airbox by hand?). I don't think the Japs made conical boots for the 10...or?
 
Telling what I measured on my 9: boot dia. to carb side = 50mm; boot inside airflow dia. = 45mm; hole dia. in airbox for boot ~ 51.25mm. The ZL10 has CVK 34 carbs w/ 55mm to take the rubber boots, so the inner airflow dia. is IMHO 50mm - won't fit w/ 51mm holes in airbox, must be bigger (can someone measure who has ZL10 airbox by hand?). I don't think the Japs made conical boots for the 10...or?

I can tell you for fact that the only difference is in the boot. I personally run zx carbs on one of my zl9's and have swapped back and forth between the carbs many times. To use the bigger carbs on the zl9 you need to simply use the boots for the zl1 and to run smaller carbs on the zl1 you need to simply use the boots from a zl9. The holes in the air box are the same when the boot is pulled off for both the zl9 and the zl1.
 
What I find on mine from ZL1 carb side of boot is 53mm. The airbox opening with no boot in place measures 51mm. Other pic to follow
 

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Thanx for info, have only my 9-box here to look @, so the inner airflow boot dia. is ~45 mm as well on the 10...thought they made it bigger - always good to talk about it.:laughing7:
 
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