1986 Zl 600 Eliminator

soundproflea

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2011
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
I have a 1986 Kawasaki Zl 600 Eliminator and my question is "Do i have to take the motor completely off the frame in order to replace rings or can it be done with out removing motor?" if i have to remove motor that requires removing all drive train,exhaust ,carbs,...... pretty much the whole bike.I have had valvecover off so there does seem to be "a little room to work with" before frame becomes a issue.
 
Don't know about the zl600 but I have had them off the bigger ones and even some other big bore kaws. I would think it's very doable
 
I haven't ever taken my engine down in my 600 but my thoughts are that it could be done. Everything you remove (valve cover, head, cylinders) is going to give you more room to work with between the frame and the pistons
 
I have a 1986 Kawasaki Zl 600 Eliminator and my question is "Do i have to take the motor completely off the frame in order to replace rings or can it be done with out removing motor?" if i have to remove motor that requires removing all drive train,exhaust ,carbs,...... pretty much the whole bike.I have had valvecover off so there does seem to be "a little room to work with" before frame becomes a issue.

it's been a few years, but yes you can leave engine in frame, & get down to pistons.
 
ok thanks for the input. I guess i will give it a shot. I am pretty sure rings is my problem.I only had the bike for about a month,it ran great but after sitting for 19 days without starting it would not start.i then started the troubleshooting(had spark,rebuilt carbs and still wouldnt start.) at that point i checked compression and had 70lbs in #1 30lbs in #2 35lbs in #3 and 40lbs in #4. but like i said it started and ran great before sitting so i put a little honey oil in the cylinders and waited 2 days and sure enough compression was 100+ in all cylinders. i started the bike ran it for a couple of short rides and next morning again no start and #2 #3 #4 once again had no compression.
 
Did you adjust valves yet?

I agree, at least check it before ripping down any further than that.

However, on the same note it wouldn't explain why motor honey bumped up compression...that is more rings.

But at least check the valves, cheap and easy first!
 
Did you adjust valves yet?

I agree, at least check it before ripping down any further than that.

However, on the same note it wouldn't explain why motor honey bumped up compression...that is more rings.

But at least check the valves, cheap and easy first!

i agree with both here !! check & adjust valves first.
 
Possible leak in carbs, washing cylinders?? Just a thought...

Umm, hmm, in my opinion not likely. Because it would be noticed when checking for compression i.e. soaked cylinder, or it would have probably had a hard time cranking (hydrolock).

But I would inspect the oil and smell it for fuel, another sign the rings could be going south.
 
Possible leak in carbs, washing cylinders?? Just a thought...

when bike would not start after sitting for 19 days,I started trouble shooting 101. (engine needs 3 things to run. 1.spark 2. fuel 3. compression or air). so i checked spark and had good spark at the plugs.after turning engine over with choke on(gas tank full with new gas)I pulled a couple of sparkplugs and they were dry so at that point i thought carbs were suspect so i pulled them and rebuilt them. in the process of cleaning them i noticed at least 2 pilot jets were clogged pretty bad so i finished cleaning and re-installed on bike,making sure air boots were on tight and air filter replaced.before trying to start bike again i checked to make sure I was at least getting fuel to the float bowl and I was.turned bike over again and still plugs were dry so thats when i checked compression and did not have hardly any. Thats when i pulled valve cover to see if there was anything visably wrong(broken timing chain or anything else)and all seemed to be fine. Valves were opening and closing and oil was present or flowing.thats when i tried the honey oil in cylynders and that gave me compresson to start for that day but not the next. Oil was in very bad shape (old and contaminated with with small amount of karosene that i used to see if rings were stuck) so i changed oil and filter replaced with new oil and a can of restore hoping if i could get started again i could get a few more miles before re-ringing.havent been able to get compression up again enough to start so thats where I am at this point.
 
Did you adjust valves yet?

I did not adjust valves when i had valve cover off because I wasnt sure how to check them to see if they were needing adjusting.They were opening and closing(to the naked eye) and for the 700 miles I put on bike when I first purchased it,the valves and motor in general was not making any unusual noises(other than typical kawasaki valves clicking for just a few seconds when bike is started the first start of the day) I forgot to mention in my first post that the bike when i purchased it had only 8200 original miles.The bike was owned by 2 people before me and the guy I bought it from only put on 1000 miles in the 1year and 3 months he owned it so the bike has sat more than it's been ridden in its 26 years of life. I am very suprised that a bike with only 9000 miles on it and what seem's to be in excellent condition would even be in need of rings but unless someone has any other suggestions or tips to give me I have to believe that thru my trouble shooting the conclussion is that the rings are suspect?
 
Check valves. .005'-.007' intake and .007'-.009' exhaust. On the valve you are checking just make sure the lobe is pointed away and the base circle is on the cam follower, that is if a zl6 has followers. I have yet to get into a zl6. Get the zl6 manual and the zx6 base manual in the download section
 
The '86 model year for some reason has had more problems with the igniter than the '87 model year. Not saying that this is your problem but I have experienced it first hand with working on '86 model years. I realize this does not address your low compression issue but merely bringing it to light. I strongly suggest setting the valve clearance on your 600 before going any further.
 
The '86 model year for some reason has had more problems with the igniter than the '87 model year. Not saying that this is your problem but I have experienced it first hand with working on '86 model years. I realize this does not address your low compression issue but merely bringing it to light. I strongly suggest setting the valve clearance on your 600 before going any further.

i hear that !!! just put new igniter in Dad's "86" ZL600. running much better.
 
During my rebuild, my ignition pick up just stopped working....just up and quit. no spark of any kind. Lucky thing I acquired one from an ebay seller who sent a part late and threw that in for free because of being late.....it saved my bacon!
 
I am with everyone else here, ADJUST THE VALVES!!! before anything else. Tight valves can give the problems you describe and are more common than people realise. Did you do your compression test as the book describes?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top