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ZL 900/1000 Fan Circuit Testing Trouble-Shooting & Repair

R. J. Apr 9, 2017

  1. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Spare parts IMG_4020.JPG IMG_4021.JPG IMG_4022.JPG IMG_4024.JPG IMG_4025.JPG You should have spare parts on hand for when the time comes.
     
  2. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Here is the wright up FAN CIRCUITRY EXPLAINED. IMG_4026.JPG IMG_4027.JPG IMG_4028.JPG IMG_4029.JPG IMG_4031.JPG IMG_4032.JPG
     
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  3. kvalheim

    kvalheim Well-Known Member

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    Great job R.J. You do one of the most thorough jobs of explaining things. :hello:
     
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  4. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Here is another wright up. IMG_4040.JPG IMG_4041.JPG IMG_4042.JPG IMG_4043.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
  5. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Thank's Kevin. This Procedure is in progress & will be finished at a later date.
     
  6. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    The 120°C sensor on my 9 has been replaced by a seal plug, this blinking red led in the tach makes me nervous; I changed the connections for the led to: fan on = led on, that's what I call CONTROL !
     
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  7. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Relay/switch locations IMG_4034.JPG Front switch of thermostat housing red over temp light in tach on 116c/240*f. See pic #1. Rear switch of thermostat housing 110*c/230*f fan on. See pic #1. Thermostat housing is located under left side of fuel tank. Pic #1. IMG_4038.JPG Bottom middle of radiator switch 97*c/207*f fan on. See pic #2. IMG_4044.JPG Rear round fan relay. See pic #3. Front square fan switch relay. See pic # 3. Both are located on right side under the fuel tank. Pic #3. IMG_4054.JPG Engine oil over temp switch 120*c/248*f left side of oil pan. pic #4
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017
    markus56 likes this.
  8. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I still want to do some heat cycle tests using my temp meter on my Craftsman multi-meter. Maybe later on this week. IMG_4033.JPG
     
  9. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Here is a few trouble shooting tips. If the fan does not come on at all first check the fuses in the junction box main 30 amp, fan 10 amp, horn 10 amp. If all are good next disconnect the fan & using 2 wires jump it directly to the bikes battery. If fan does not come on replace the fans motor. If it does come on then check the fan switch 97*c/207*f (bottom rear center of radiator) wire single black lead to see if it is broken or frayed. I had a switch that was hanging on by a few strands of wire & if you wiggled it the fan would intermittent. If the fan comes on after the key is turned off but does not come on while the bike is running first check the fan switch 110*c/230*f (rear of thermostat housing) wire lead to see if it is broken off or frayed. If needed then change out the square fan switch & or the round fan relay ( right side under fuel tank) is bad. I always replace both just for extra assurance. Just remember each time you replace a part you need to bring the bike up to temp. for fan operation. Keep an eye on the red over temp light in the tach so that you do not over heat the motor. I don't trust that red dummy light that is why I installed a Temp gauge. Well worth the money. If I have something wrong in this wright up please let me know but it worked for me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017
    markus56 likes this.
  10. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    :hello:Can you tell us something about temp. numbers in different ride situations e. g. when fan starts at idle speed, in traffic jam, during a ride etc. - would be interesting.

    Oooops, I was too early...first read, then wright :laughing7: will wait til test cycle is finished:thumbsup:.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2017
  11. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I'm presently working on a friends ZL 1000. It's never been worked (24 K miles) on. While trying to trouble shoot the fan circuitry I opened up a really big can of worms. :laughing7: It wouldn't run correctly. First I had to put/make new plug wires & install new plugs. I got it to fire on all 4 cyns. Now I thing the carbs need pulled & cleaned. :pain10:. The coolant is really rusty so it needs flushed & new coolant. After all this is done I'll be able to do the temp cycles. With my bike having a Daytona temp gauge I know at all times what my bikes temp is. I could to a run on it to give an idea of what the idle, cursing, stuck in traffic temps & at different speeds but ambient temp & humidity needs to be factored in. Here in FL with 90* temps & 90% humidity my bikes fan works over time.
     
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  12. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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  13. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    :hello:#2 is not a switch, it's the temp. sensor for the water temp. gauge which the ZX has i.e. only changes electrical resistance when getting hot.
     
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  14. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Yes I know. I meant to type temp/sensor/switches. Also when you click on the part it takes you to motosport & the correct description.
     
  15. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    :hello:I prefer the cheapest version: manual switch. Will not fail and you are master control to let the fan run as long as ign. ON.
     
  16. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I don't like doing a manual over ride switch. I do remember seeing a wright up on this site on how to wire in a switch that lets the fan operate as designed but also allows a manual fan switch. I won't be doing any temp cycle test anytime soon.
     
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  17. markus56

    markus56 ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    I'm with you R.J., I think it's best to keep the factory cooling system intact and working as designed. You have explained the diagnosis procedure very well and anybody should be able to follow the instructions and fix what's wrong with their system. Thanks for taking the time to explain all of this and actually helping out around here Brother. That's something we're really short on around here nowadays. Sad but true!
     
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  18. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    I installed it for an emergency case which I was in during summer: after an Autobahn ride the engine was hot enough to start the fan but nothing happened (97° has died) so I overtook on side lane (officially not allowed) to give rad. some air and came home with luck. Actually I let the sensor switches do their work and don't play around with ON/OFF all the time but wanna have some safety in the background.
     
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  19. kvalheim

    kvalheim Well-Known Member

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    To many Indians and not enough Chiefs :laughing7: If it wasn't for R.J. and VERY FEW others :pk:I know that I would not be able to figure things out on my own. Great job and keep up the good work.
     
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  20. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Nothing wrong in having a back up switch. I searched for the thread that ties a switch into the system without interfering with proper functionality with no luck. If my memory serves me correctly it is to tie into 2 pins on the larger square relay that is located under the right side of the fuel tank. IMG_4025.JPG
     

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