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Need to Bleed??

jgonzo Sep 23, 2011

  1. jgonzo

    jgonzo Well-Known Member

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    I just got through installing my new front wave rotors along with new pads.....No fluid lost, everything went well on the change. I don't have near the same pressure I had before, the handle pulls way farther before I get good pressure. Even though I did not get any air in the lines I bled both sides at least 4 masters full each and I still can't get good feel in the lever. I tried to let them gravity for a while, but nothing after the enitial opening comes out of the bleeder....I then bled the calipers at the banjo bolt....again starting the furthest from the master and two masters full each, not once letting the master get empty............I installed new EBC severe duty pads....the metal backing plate is a little thinner that tne Kawi originals but that should make a difference.....What am I missing?? Any special trick that I don't know of?? Never had this issue before on a bike. The two holes in the bottom of the master seem to be fine, not clogged.....Do I need to remove everything and give it all a good flushing?? Oh yah, before I made the change the brakes worked great....no issues, very firm and quick to engage...........WTF??
     
  2. zlMark

    zlMark Cult Leader

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    Pads need to seat in before they will have good stopping power
     
  3. onegodinkansas

    onegodinkansas Well-Known Member

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    I have a pulse when I brake. Can I have my front rotors turned?
     
  4. zlMark

    zlMark Cult Leader

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    First i would apologize to Gonzo for hijacking his thread!

    Look closely to see if its rust. You might be able to scuff them up with a sander, but most likely need replaced
     
  5. onegodinkansas

    onegodinkansas Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Gonzo, I just replaced pads today also & was in your lane mentally, just clicked reply! :) No rust, so I'll have to isolate which side & replace the rotor. Thanks!
     
  6. Jarney

    Jarney Strip Warrior Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    Check the threads below out. I just did the same thing on the front and rear (new wave rotors and pads) and now the levers feel spongy. Everything seems to be working ok, but the levers feel spongy, as ZLMark stated the pads and rotors will need to be broken in, but I don't know if that will affect lever travel. I went through about 4 bottles of brake fluid trying to get firmer feel at the lever, installed speed bleeders too - there's no air bubbles coming out but still the lever feels different. Maybe it's nothing, maybe it will need rebled after some break in of the pads and rotors and then the lever will feel better? I've only got about 50 miles on mine so far. If there's any doubt whatsoever on your brake lines, clean everything out really good - if for no other reason than peace of mind - even though the brake system is sort of "enclosed", it's amazing how much junk builds up in there over time. Don't take chances on the brakes - I did and ended up with the front end locking up and the bike and I ending up on the ground with many repairs to make and much money out of my pocket. Later.

    http://www.zl-oa.com/community/threads/Front-Brake-lever-travel.15703

    http://www.zl-oa.com/community/threads/Brakes&highlight=brake.15649
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 3, 2017
  7. paulfun

    paulfun "King Of The 1/4mi (Internally Stock)"

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    Replace brake lines. Also next time you change pads on a 25+ year old bike dont simply push caliper in with clamp open the bleeder and push. I have experianced the same thing with my zl9 and belive its due to flex in the line and when i did the brakes on my zl1 I opened the bleeder and the feel was the same as before i started.
     
  8. zlMark

    zlMark Cult Leader

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    +1
    I like to remove the pistons from the bore and clean them every time I replace pads. If it isn't leaking when you start the chances are that the seals can be re-used
     
  9. Jarney

    Jarney Strip Warrior Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    I took mine all the way apart and cleaned them, so I did not compress the piston, but still wound up with the lever feeling a little different. Later.
     
  10. jgonzo

    jgonzo Well-Known Member

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    I'll take it for a ride today. I'll let you guys know how it goes.........
     
  11. jgonzo

    jgonzo Well-Known Member

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    Put on about 25 miles before the rain started.............still work like ****. I can pull the lever all the way down to the grip if I want to, rear seems to be fine......they do seem to be working better, but still not right. Before I could leave 2 fingers under on the grip when breaking and the lever wouldn't even be close to the grip. I'm going to pull the entire front system to make sure it's all clean..........Empty all fluids and then?? Compressed air?..........each hose then the block.......Dismantle the master and check it out. Nice rainy day project........crap.....
     
  12. eliminaterman

    eliminaterman Guest

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    Hi,had the same sort of prob's with one of my bikes,sorted it out by putting on black braided hoses,no prob's now.
     
  13. jgonzo

    jgonzo Well-Known Member

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    Right on Mark..........Exactly what was wrong. Went through the whole system and the pistons had so much buildup on them after I compressed them they were not coming all the way out. Did fronts and rear, all seals fine, went through all of the lines, banjo's, front block and front master............All is awsome, as good if not better than before. Thanks man........
    And thanks to all..........again.........jim
     
  14. jd2ndzl

    jd2ndzl New Member

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    What’s causing front breaks to lock tight when bike is sitting and getting warmer .

    Can’t Even roll bike bleed some fluid rolls fine, then same thing happens drove close to house locked up again bleed fluid off rolls easily again but now super spongy might be very low window stained can’t see level
     
  15. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Crusty piston or bore. Disassemble calipers and clean them up, inspect seals and replace if necessary. You ride it like that and the rotor will junk out in short order.
     
  16. furchin

    furchin ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    You will also want to check the return port inside of the reservoir to make sure it is clear. To me it seems that once you apply pressure to the line that the pressure is kept on the piston because the return port is not clear and thus no fluid returning to the reservoir.
     
    87kawzl likes this.
  17. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Good call Furchin! I stand by my don't ride it till it's sorted statement.
     
  18. jd2ndzl

    jd2ndzl New Member

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    Thanks I will check that out because as soon as I open bleed at Caliber piston releases. Drove it home in 25° 3 miles OK It warmed up to 50 sitting in the garage when Wouldn’t move just from sitting no breaks applied rolled into place same thing happened at 70. When I bought it owner said he did front brakes I need to clean window to see fluid wondering if he compressed pistons an never removed excess also brake lever would only move maybe 1/2 inch total. Yesterday I bleed out enough where brake won’t grab until lever pulled 1/2 way and I see pad touch rotor and release.
     
  19. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
    markus56 likes this.
  20. Ed

    Ed Active Member

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    Caliper pistons aren't sticking if bleeding off pressure releases them. Sounds like what happens when you use an aftermaket lever. The lever is pushing on master cylinder piston. Very common problem with Chinese replacements. File or grind a little off where it pushes on the piston so it has a little play. Or find an OE lever.
     

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