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Looking for a steady idle with no miss

badbrad Jan 6, 2019

  1. RLTherio

    RLTherio Well-Known Member

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    I love it when you guys talk romance :D
     
  2. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    If I set the air gap with the “T” mark lined up with the magnet on the coil, isn’t it the same as this picture? Would I have a different gap if I set it as shown in this picture? I’m just not sure why they show setting the air gap on the corner area like this.

    Basically I put the mark on the magnet and set my gap. Same in both sides.



    Brad


    B4A5F23E-BAC0-4ACB-8E73-4562EFB25BA2.jpeg
     
  3. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Setting it on the leading edge gives it more accuracy. I'd do it per the manual.
     
  4. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Well, got the pulse coils changed out and have the same results. Runs good cold but starts to act up around time the fan comes on. Took about 15 minutes today before it started acting up. It’s cold out today. I’m at a loss.

    Although the plugs have no real miles on them, I’m going to pull them and inspect/replace. I am also going to balance the carbs just as a measure. I’m almost positive it’s a miss or skip that causes it not to idle low. If I keep it idle up around 1400 or so it will not cut off but 1000 or 1100 it’s going to stall.

    Runs so damn good cold. Smooth with barely a bobble.

    Compression Check? I just don’t think it’s a valve.
     
  5. prfixer

    prfixer Senior Member Supporting Member

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    Adjust the valves, at least get them ruled out.
     
  6. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Yes, headed to get some gas for the remote tank and will balance carbs, change spark plugs then go to the valves. Everything else I can think of has been verified. I
    have a brand new powder coated valve cover from years ago, may be the time to put that on. Does the member that was selling those still do it?

    Appreciate the support prfixer.

    Brad
     
  7. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I'd say it's the gen/alternator. I have a good one that you can try. It's yours for $50 shipped. Markus was the one selling Euro valve covers. As far as I know he's out.
     
  8. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    All vacuum hoses/caps and boots in good shape? I still would nip the wires on both ends and reseat them. They are solid core wire right?
     
  9. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Well, troubleshooting over for now. I hooked up my aux tank and have screwed up my carbs. I have used this aux tank for several years but looks like the inside of the hose broke down and let black rubber get through 2 filters, one being a pingel. I was tuning the carbs which were off on 3/4 when it started running real bad and cut off.

    I Checked the pingel and it had black pieces of rubber in it. Don’t know how it got through that pingel filter but it did. It will run on choke for a second but mothing else. Got to pull the carbs again now. What a mess.

    I even cleaned the aux tank out a little before using it. It was hanging up nice and clean looking before I ever used it. I’ll be dang.

    I’ll get back with you on that RJ! I checked charging system and showed a good 14+ volts but that doesn’t mean there’s not an issue. I almost had the carbs dialed in and really smooth before the trash got it.

    Brad
     
  10. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Yes, all that’s been done and is solid core. Got a good part number on wire if I wanted to redo them totally?

    I believe this wire now came from the zl store.
     
  11. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Napa carries 7 mm solid core wire sold by the foot.
     
  12. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Great, I have the NGK spark blue boots and they Check good! Bought these and put them on when I first had this issue. Is anybody running these NGK Boots?

    Brad
     
  13. ZipRoar

    ZipRoar Member

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    +1
     
  14. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: When I went through my friend Ron D. ZL 10 I put new NGK boots on his bike. They work just fine. Yes a gen/alternator can break down when hot. Sometimes a digital multi meter may not show a fluctuation/intermittent in voltage. I use an old Simpson analog meter from the 60s for trouble shooting intermittent problems.
     
  15. RLTherio

    RLTherio Well-Known Member

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    I would suggest to adjust the valves first before adjusting the sync.
     
  16. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    I wanted to report back and let everyone know the results of my problem. After all these years, she’s back!

    When I last posted last I stated that the bike cutoff hard while performing the carb sync and would not start back up. I thought I had sucked some trash in as I was using my old auxiliary tank. Although I found some rubber in the pingel filter (from the old hose) there was nothing found in the carburetors. I put everything back together and installed the carbs back on the bike. I did find that the reason the bike cut off during carb sync is because one of my vacuum gages was not reading (valve was closed on that gage) and I kept adjusting carb trying to get it to react to the adjustment but it wouldn’t change due the gage being closed and not picking up the vacuum. I benched synced after putting the carbs back together and reinstalled, they were way off from me running number 4 carb screw to far out.

    I started the bike and it ran great. I waited for it to warm up as this is where it would start to miss and cut off when it got 210 degrees. I waited and when the fan came on, it continued to run smooth as silk. The bike cooled down, fan went off, and continued this cycle without a bobble or miss in the low idle.

    All I can think is that the carb sync was off enough originally that it would cause the hard, erratic idle when warned up. ( this is why I had set up to carb sync, I had tried everything else). I can’t believe its back running good. Now it’s time to pull the front brakes apart and clean so I can actually ride it. lol, It takes 2 people to try and push it! I need to be shot letting this bike get this way.

    Now it’s time to jump on the 1000. I’ve got to clean the tank on that one and go through the carbs. As Markus stated, I’ve got to ride these bikes more!

    Thanks for everyone’s support but wanted to follow up with what was found.

    Coils changed
    Plugs changed
    Wires changed
    CDI changed
    Pickup coils changed
    Tank Checked- clean
    Petcock rebuild
    Dieelectric grease on all connections

    All this was done to try and obtain a 1,000 rpm idle when hot. Nothing on this list solved the issue. Bike would not idle below 1400 rpm, it would eventually cutoff if tried to go lower.

    Removed carbs, inspected, bench Sync, reinstalled and issue solved. I have not put the sync gages back on it yet, sounds real close. That will be done later, time to ride. Well, need to get brakes done first.

    Thanks Rick for the sweet trick on bench sync. You are truly the man!

    Brad
     
  17. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Woo hoo! Glad you got it done, good job!
     
  18. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Job well done. :notworthy:.
     
  19. badbrad

    badbrad Senior Member

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    Thanks guys , it felt so good to take it down the road and have it run flawless. Now on to the 1000.

    Sirious, thanks a lot for the support!

    Brad
     
  20. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I'd say it was a lesson well learned. When I put my cabs back on I'll syn them first. I'll be picking up my carb bank rails from powder coat Mon.
     

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