1. Guest,
    We need good tech writers that are willing to help out here at ZL-OA. If you like taking photos of jobs as you perform the steps on your repairs, have historical ads/documents from old magazines, or any else you think belongs in the Technical Library than you might be able to help. Send a private message to Furchin, Mudrunner88, Chris, Jarney, Wuputt, or Markus56 and we can lead you in the right direction to get started.
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Fuse/Junction Box Repair Service

cube_top Jul 8, 2010

  1. cube_top

    cube_top Active Member

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    I'd like to thank furchin for his original post on this. My ZL1000 was having the problems but I thought it was a water issue. This morning my lights and tach dropped out 5 times. A little unnerving so I yanked it out here at work and set at it. I found some good stuff.

    I've been working in Electronics for over 20 years. Military, Space Flight, Consumer, I've done it all. I currently run the biggest R&D Lab for a global company here in Alpharetta. I hold more soldering and quality certifications than I can list. Now that I'm done bragging, off to the show. ;)

    [​IMG]

    For the unitiated, this is the "problem child."

    You will need to remove the side cover on the right side of the bike. There's a screw to take out and then the cover itself pops off. Easy cheesy.

    After you have the box out and unplugged, I recommend CAREFULLY and SLOWLY using a drill and using a tip the aproximate same size as the plastic rivets, SLOWLY drill them below the surface of the back cover. It takes no force and not much depth either.

    Pop the rear cover off and you'll be greeted with something like this.

    [​IMG]

    You'll have to remove 2 philips head screws and the fuses out the front. I took a picture of the fuse locations so I'd know where they go. (See first photo)

    The front will look like this.

    [​IMG]

    Don't worry about the front too much. I cleaned mine up a little since I was in there but it's pretty much cosmetic. A GOOD idea that was brought to my attention though would be to clean the clips and give them a coat of dielectric grease. Easily purchased at any automotive retailer. I didn't have any handy. It will prevent further corrosion. (Courtesy of kawboy)

    Excusing the poor macro shots here using my iPhone, what you're looking at is the relay contacts on the back of the board.

    [​IMG]

    What you can't see in this picture is the THREE broken solder joints. Most of the solder on the back was WELL beyond corroded and some were cold solder joints in the beginning. Time and weather just weakened them to the point of no return.

    The entirity of the back looked in VERY poor shape.

    [​IMG]

    If you have come this far, there is very little reason NOT to reflow ALL of your solder joints. Some will be a pain. I was wishing I still had some Acid Core flux lying around. Before you start reflowing the solder, get some cleaner like flux-off or alcohol (Not Jim Bean!) and a small semi-stiff bristle brush and CLEAN THE HELL OUT OF IT! Also brought to my attention is that it may be possible for the fuse leads to rotate when you solder them. I did not have any problems but that doesn't mean it COULD happen and we all know how Murphy likes to pop up here and there. Kawboy suggests putting the fuses in the clips as this SHOULD keep them aligned should the one you are soldering on try to rotate, etc. (Thanks again kawboy)

    Do the best you can soldering and you should wind up looking similar to this. Also note that after you complete your soldering, you should CLEAN THE HELL OUT OF THE BOARD AGAIN! Remove all the flux residue, etc. It should only take a few seconds at this point and if you want to conformal coat like I did, the second cleaning is CRUCIAL or it will not adhere.

    [​IMG]

    At THIS point, I used some Conformal Coating and sprayed a layer or two on the back. This should keep the board from EVER getting to that sorry state again.

    It's now good as new and should never give me another problem. The one thing I saw in furchin's post that had me curious was replacing the relay. I can tell you that particular relay will last until the bike decomposes. Now, they CAN go bad like anything else but I am familiar with that family of NEC relays and they are EXTREMELY robust. The other thing is that you can get that exact replacement. The reason the radio shack replacement may last three years is its rating. (or some other underlying issue in the bike) The NEC can be directly replaced though.

    As a final note, I sealed my box back up using some epoxy. If I ever have to open it back up, I can with ease but the epoxy will keep it closed.

    IF someone is having problems with theirs, I will gladly fix yours. It wouldn't take me long to do. Just let me know if you're having any problems. If I can get my hands on a spare or two, I'll build em up and fix em and then I can do a swap out so you wouldn't have to wait. I'm not mechanical but this is something that I can do and feel like I'm actually contributing here.

    I hope someone may find this useful.

    Cheers!
     
  2. topflight

    topflight Active Member

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    Please help. My junction box is fried and I do mean fried. It has a big hole in the middle of it. I need another one can you sell me one?
     
  3. cube_top

    cube_top Active Member

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    Unfortunately, I never received any extra boxes that I could fix up. There may be a member that has one for sale. I'd try listing a want ad here. Wish I could help you more. I'd say I could probably fix yours but if there's a big hole there, enough of the board may be destroyed that I can't fix. Also, those traces can source a LOT of current. More than your wiring can. I'd be checking the bike for burnt wires too and make sure you don't have something else going on.

    Happy to help anyway I can. Wish I could offer more.
     
  4. topflight

    topflight Active Member

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    Thanks for your reply and advice. I will check it out. I have found one.
     
  5. Bacchus

    Bacchus Senior Member Supporting Member

    Cube...

    excellent write up !!

    I definately think it belongs in the tech library a really great job !!

    glad this post came up I talked to you a couple weeks back about fixing up a zl1000 fuse box that was having issues... I checked my messages, I still have your info... I will try to get it shipped asap.
     
  6. Rice Paddy

    Rice Paddy Active Member

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    I have a box I would like you to go over, I also have spares,
    The Kawasaki uses that same part / part# on a bunch of bikes
    Here is the list sorry I didn't clean it up and make it look prettier

    ZL900-A1 Eliminator (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZL900-A2 Eliminator (1986)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1100-B1 LTD Shaft (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1100-B2 LTD Shaft (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A1 Voyager (1983)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A2 Voyager (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A3 Voyager (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A4 Voyager (1986)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A5 Voyager (1987)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN1300-A6 Voyager (198:cool:
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN700-A1 LTD Shaft (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZN700-A2 LTD Shaft (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX1000-A1 Ninja 1000R (1986)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX1000-A2 Ninja 1000R (1987)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX1100-A1 GPz (1983)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX1100-A2 GPz (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX750-A1 GPz 750 (1983)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX750-A2 GPz 750 (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX750-A3 GPz 750 (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX750-E1 GPz 750 Turbo (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX750-E2 GPz 750 Turbo (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX900-A1 Ninja (1984)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX900-A2 Ninja (1985)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
    59416-1056
    ZX900-A3 Ninja (1986)
    Assembly: CHASSIS ELECTRICAL E...
    CASE-ELECTRIC (SKU: 59416-1056) 1 $70.12
     
  7. zlMark

    zlMark Cult Leader

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    Cube top, how about repairing the link to your pics or deleting them and edit the message and go advanced so you can attach them here.
     
  8. dld

    dld Active Member

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    I have A fuse box I would like to have redone ...how should i go about it
     
  9. kawboy

    kawboy Supporting Member Technical Author

    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 3, 2017

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